29-03-2012: Bulkheads

The bulkheads is covered with one layer of fiberglass - one side at a time. I mixed iron oxide in the epoxy to give it a nice black color.

27-03-2012: Bulkheads

Today I was not in the mood to be playing with epoxy so I started on the bulkheads. I used my old stations as a template. To shape the polystyrene I used my disc sander. I was glad I have a vacuum cleaner attached to the sander..

This is the bulkhead behind the cockpit.

The bulkhead in front of the cockpit.

24-03-2012: Joining the hull and deck - right side

I am now ready to reinforce the right side inside.

Once again it takes a lot of patience.

18-03-2012: Joining the deck and hull - left side

I am now ready to reinforce the deck -hull joint with a band of fiberglass. 

It is very difficult to put the epoxy in place. I both takes some gymnastic skills and some innovative tools. Here my "telescopic cup of epoxy".

And my "how to place the fiberglass band" tool:

12-03-2012: Tubing for the skeg wire

The epoxy has now hardened and its time to remove the silicone tube.

The silicone tube is very difficult to pull out, but a drop of ethanol does the trick.

The tube for the skeg wire is now pushed in place.

And finally the deck and hull are put together. I used all the straps and rope and tape I could get hold on to hold it in place. before I glued the two together with epoxy I waited a day to ensure myself that I had not forgotten anything..

11-03-2012: Reinforcing the hull

To hold the tubing for the skeg wire I made a canal using the same principles. 

To remove the silicone tube when the epoxy has hardened I use a drop of ethanol. The ethanol makes it very easy to pull out the silicone tube.

I decided to reinforce the hull where the cockpit is located by laying more layers of fiberglass. Right where the cockpit opening is located there are now three layers of fiberglass and at the paddlers feet there is now two layers.

03-03-2012: More deck fittings

In front of the cockpit I want some bungee cord for storing things. The bungee cord is here placed as a test to checkout the positioning.

Holes marked up and ready for the drill. I used The two test strips to determine the spacing between the holes.

Tubing in place on the bow end ready for epoxy on the inside.

Starting to mark up for the bungee cord behind the cockpit.

To test before drilling the holes I use a mockup to hold the bungee.

Satisfied with the test and sure everything is OK I drill the holes....

When turning over the deck I realize that there was something I had forgotten... But I was lucky. The holes is very close to the eye pad, but it's OK.

Both the holes in front of and behind the cockpit is now covered with fiberglass.

01-03-2012: Deck fittings

On the bow end of the deck I plan to have a couple of bungee cords to stick my paddle under.

I mark the positions very carefully before drilling the holes...

As spacekeepers I use silicone tubing with a piece of string inside. The string is to keep the tube from collapsing.

Ready to cover the tubing with epoxy.

The tubing is now covered with fiberglass.

26-02-2012: Foot braces and wie for the skeg II

Just reinforced the mountings for the foot braces with glasfibre. To protect the threads i placed a screw in each hole and then placed the fiberglass over the screw.

The new block for the tubing for the skeg wire is now in place.

19-02-2012: Wire for the skeg / name inlay

Aaaargh - @#$!!**@#$ !!
I just wanted to check how the skeg wirering was to operate so I put the deck on the hull and hooked a bungee cord and wire to the skeg in the skeg box. From the skeg box to the wire cleat I placed the plastic tube in wich the wire should run. When trying to mount the tubing I realized that I have mounted the wrong tube bushing. I have 8mm tube and I had glued a 6mm bushing ti the wood block. I took my drill and "dismounted" the 6mm bushing. Then I tried again and found that the wire was almost impossible to operate. The near 90 degrees bend on the tubing made the wire slide very poorly. I need the tubing to meet the deck in a very narrow angle so there is no bend.

"Dismounting" the wood block

Repairing the hole. This will not be visible because it will be underneath the wire cleat. 

I placed the name inlay on the deck and glued it in place. The I wrapped the whole thing in tape very tight. (got no pictures of the tape wrapping)

17-02-2012: Mounting foot braces

I have made four small pieces of plywood for mounting the foot brace rails. A M6 bushing is countersunk into the backside of the plywood.

I used epoxy and wood dust to make a thick glue. Clamps are holding the rails while the glues hardenens. 

For securing the hatches I made small wooden pad eyes.  The idea is to tie the hatch to the boat with a string so I dont loose the hatches.